The Nakasendō (中山道) was a 534km trading route that connected Edo (modern-day Tokyo) to Kyoto. It was one of the five routes of the Edo period 1603 and 1868. There were 69 stations – or post-towns – between Edo and Kyoto.
Today (Wed 27 Sept) we walked the 8km stretch between Magome-juku, the forty-third post-town, and Tsumago-juku, the forty-second post-town, in the Kiso Valley.
Both towns have been restored to their appearance as Edo-era post towns and so offer a taste of Edo era towns. The path is well maintained and well sign posted. With a mix of cobbled, paved and dirt paths, in and out of forests and crossing the stream.
From Magome it was two kilometres up hill that was tough going, but gave spectacular views through the valley and in and out of forrests. Once we reached the summit it was an easier down hill for the remainder. Mainly in forests and including a stop at a waterfall.
One interesting sight along the way was the presence of bear bells. Every few hundred meters while the path was in forests there was a bell mounted on a stand with the instruction to ring loudly to scare away any bears. There is a small population of Asiatic black bears in the area. Jokes aside about them really being dinner bells to attract the bears – the boys studiously rang them as loud as they could each time. The only wildlife we did see was lots of spiders in the trees and some birds.
Our walk concluded in Tsumago which we explored in more detail after our brief visit the day before. With the first stop being a small tea house that also served cool drinks. Well deserved after the walk. The timber structures, the narrow roads and walk ways and the quietness of the town all stood out.
We then headed back to the hotel ready for onsen and another bento box style dinner.
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